Gulabjaam - As delicious as it can get


Maharashtrians, by nature, aren’t entrepreneurial. They’d rather have a comfortable job that brings in a regular monthly income. So, if someone from the community who is employed with a bank in London decides to quit with the aim of starting his own restaurant, all hell is certain to break loose. Sidharth Chandekar is that 27-year-old youngster in Sachin Kundalkar’s latest Marathi film, Gulabjaam. What aggravates his agony is that he is coaxed into getting engaged to his childhood friend during his visit to Mumbai, although this was never on the agenda.

Frustrated at the way his life is going, he runs away to Pune instead of taking a flight to London, without informing his family, to learn cooking. He is an expert in making delicious non-vegetarian dishes, but he wants to be a master in churning out authentic Maharashtrian food that his restaurant would offer. Here, he comes across Sonali Kulkarni, who supplies dabbas on a daily basis to working professionals, bachelors and students.

Chandekar seeks to be her disciple, but it’s an uphill task given the fact that the much-older Kulkarni is a loner and eccentric in many ways with a backstory of her own. He pursues her till she gives in, but not before she educates him about the minutest of details that cooking involves–from shopping for the ingredients to washing the utensils after the food is cooked. That’s the first of many lessons that she imparts. Chandekar is crazy in his own way, having conversations with the fish that he buys from the market or the peanuts that he peels.

Slowly, Kulkarni and Chandekar warm up to each other and speak many unspoken words. Their bond is the highlight of the film with both complementing each other in their individual ways. Chandekar’s warmth and optimism fuel hope in Kulkarni who gradually steps out of her comfort zone. She, in turn, unknowingly makes him aware about the unpredictability of life and what a priceless gift it is. Just when everything seems to be falling in place, there’s a twist to the tale.   

Gulabjaam is a delicious film with beautiful shots of many dishes that will tempt you to devour them without any guilt. What adds flavour to the beautifully narrated story are two outstanding performances. Sonali Kulkarni is fabulous and shows a gamut of emotions that her character goes through. She is flawless and brings a lot of vulnerability and pathos to her role. Whether it’s her cooking in the kitchen or watching a movie in a theatre with the focus just on her eyes, she excels in every frame. Chandekar is a surprise and an able ally to the senior actor. Not once does he slack and does complete justice to his part. He stands out despite having one of the finest actresses in the country opposite him. The industry has a new Sid on the block! 

Kundalkar has used food as a metaphor and come up with a film that is one of the finest of the year. The second half appears a bit slow, especially after the first keeps you hooked every second. Nevertheless, that does not take away from the sweetness of Gulabjaam. It’s another Marathi film that needs to be felt, experienced and savoured.

-         Kunal Purandare


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